October 6 2006
Hua Hin: Spa resort or brothel town?
Hua Hin can't decide whether it's a classy spa resort for the likes of David Beckham or a seedy brothel town more suitable for Wayne Rooney. Thailand's oldest and grandest beach resort is currently trying to be both and, by default, it's rapidly becoming the latter.

Our relaxing afternoon on Hua Hin's sandy beach was interrupted by a skanky-looking hooker who had tracked down her client from the previous night.
"Why you not want me?" she screamed at the bewildered tourist. "You think I low person? You fucking shit guy..." etc.
Prostitutes who begin stalking their customers after the first "date" are the flip side of Thailand's world-renowned "girlfriend experience" and these amusing confrontations (at least to everyone else) are now as common in Hua Hin as they are on Koh Samui. Expensive resort hotels like the Hilton are obliged to post uniformed guards at every entrance to repel uninvited female guests.
Since I last visited the resort a few years ago (See Beaches just a taxi-ride from Bangkok), Hua Hin's single street of shame has grown into a fully-fledged nightlife district covering several blocks - which now includes a windowless outlet of Thailand's most notorious chain of blowjob bars.
Normally, I'd be applauding the march of sleazy progress but, on this occasion, it's buggered up my plans.
My parents are due to visit Thailand for the first time and I was counting on Hua Hin being a suitable resort. It's taken me a long time to convince them that the whole country isn't just a gigantic red-light district so, if my dad gets accosted by prostitutes every ten minutes, I could end up with egg on my face.
Hua Hin's beach is actually much nicer than I remembered. I think the authorities must have removed some of the encroachments that used to spoil the view. Those bloody horses are still there, though, and you can't lie down on the sand without one taking a thunderous piss next to your head.
Far from being mighty stallions galloping through the surf, the first drop of rain has these equine sissies darting under the nearest beach umbrella. If the beasts could talk, they'd probably order milkshakes.
It rained quite heavily during the afternoon so we joined everyone else - and the horses - beneath a forest of umbrellas set up by the beach vendors. Plastic sheets are stretched between the poles to catch the runoff but they fill up surprisingly quickly.
Periodically, and without warning, one will suddenly fall and drench an entire family who start shrieking like they're starring in Thai soap opera. It's quality entertainment.
Waiting for the sheets to drop is like being a radio astronomer looking for the source of those elusive celestial gamma ray bursts. You never get to observe the actual event but the aftermath can be quite dramatic.
Happily, Hua Hin has banned the jet-skis and banana boats that can make swimming so hazardous in other Thai resorts. Most Thai people can't swim, of course, but it doesn't stop them taking a dip - usually in their regular street clothes.
They eschew swimwear out of modesty but, in reality, there's always enough wet T-shirt action going on to keep onlookers focused.
With so many fully clothed people clinging onto various buoyant objects, the scene looks more like a shipwreck than a day out.
Hua Hin has a nice beach, great hotels, lots of places to eat - including several decent seafood restaurants of the "choose your victim" variety - and plenty of nightlife options. However, it isn't really suitable for families - unless everyone in your family likes shagging hookers - so I'll have to take mine somewhere else.
If any reader can suggest an upscale Thai coastal resort with good infrastructure and easy connections that isn't an in-your-face meat market, I'll be eternally grateful.
[Posted to Travel by David]
*** THE COMMENT FORUM IS NOW CLOSED ***
Travel
Tarts or temples? What brings you to Thailand?
King Power chief drops Suvarnabhumi clanger
The sleazy charm of Georgetown, Penang
Hua Hin: Spa resort or brothel town?
Singapore's babe drought intensifies
Singapore girl, you're a great plate of fries
Thunder Ranch Shooting Range, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Western girls hire black studs in Jamaica
The Atlanta Hotel: Bastion of wholesome tourism
Beaches just a taxi-ride from Bangkok
Baby oil catch-me-if-you-can in Bali
Bali travel report: Kuta beach
Horny female sex-tourists in Bali
Paddy's Bar: #1 pick-up joint in Kuta, Bali
T.V. Airbookings: My favourite Thai travel agent
Khao San Road drug sting ordeal
Daytrip to Changi Airport, Singapore
Previously
June 2007
May 2007
April 2007
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January 2007
December 2006
November 2006
October 2006
September 2006
August 2006
July 2006
June 2006
May 2006
April 2006
March 2006
February 2006
January 2006
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