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August 11 2004

Beaches just a taxi-ride from Bangkok

Beaches just a taxi-ride from Bangkok

Good food, cheap beer and somewhere reasonably comfortable to put your Thai girlfriend through a lengthy sexual ordeal are the key ingredients for enjoying a relaxing weekend at the beach.

If you can't be bothered with flying, an ordinary Bangkok taxi can drive you to any one of several pleasant beach resorts by lunchtime - for between 1,000 and 1,800 baht.

Pattaya is cheap and sleazy but, given that 99% of Mango Sauce readers have already been there, I'll say no more about it. Just don't bring the wife.

Cha-am boasts one of the longest beaches in Thailand and is favoured by Thai families. The sleaze is low key and of very low quality. Most hotels are what the guidebooks refer to as "clean and basic" - in other words, crap. Overall, the resort is cheap and blessed with an overabundance of squat-toilets.

Hua Hin is Cha-am's upmarket neighbour and is very popular with Nordic families. The beach would be quite nice if it weren't for dozens of horses pissing and shitting all over it but you can lounge by the pool at one of the resort's half-decent hotels instead. The sleaze is confined to a single street of shame.

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Rayong is said to be a bit like Cha-am but I've never been there. What would be the point?

Koh Samed is a 20 minute ferry ride from Ban Phe. National park status has, so far, prevented it from being totally ruined. The island's bungalow accommodation is comfortable, if a little overpriced, and the palm-fringed sandy beaches are perfect except for the usual piles of uncollected rubbish and broken glass. When you're walking around ogling the topless farang birds, be sure to wear flip-flops. There's no other decent sleaze on offer - so bring your own.

[Posted to Travel by David]

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Readers' comments

Mr white says:

I've been to Hua Hin a couple of times, initially with my (then) Thai girlfriend and since with the same girl who is now my wife.
While it is indeed a beautiful place, the locals seemed quite unfriendly if not borderline hostile.
Initially I thought it would be an ideal place to set up an out-of-Bangkok-residence. However the attitude we encountered put second thoughts in my mind.
I would be interested to hear if any other people who frequent mango sauce have had any similar experiences.

AVID says:

Well, I reckon the best way to check out the beach is rent a car. You can get one for 1200 bhat per day in Lumphini, so who the hell wants to listen to a Thai taxi driver asking standard farang questions all the way down to Pattaya? Take your own and you can stop whenever you want & eat some spicy thai munchies for 20 bhat on the way.

All this crap about BKK traffic being crazy and all that, well its just a load of exaggerated bollocks, coz you can drive in and out just like any other place. Just avoid the rush hours & and the men in brown. And if you want some quality time with your TG, just keep driving the extra 10 mins down to Jomptien Beach.

Combover says:

Where is Pranburi? Near Hua Hin I guess. This hotel was recommended to me.

http://aleenta.com/mainpage.html

Mind you, if your TGF catches sight of this place you may as well say goodbye to your savings.

mr peter says:

I hate lying about on beaches and would rather be flogged than parade about half naked around a swimming pool or go in the sea. Having said that I do like a bit of sea side, not Pattaya of course, horrible shit hole that place, absolutely ruined. HH is my favourite and although people moan about the rocks and the horses you only have to go a short distance south to find a nice long beach, then near the airbase there is a small cove sia noi. Never encountered any hostility there and have been six times. It has a very romantic sea side restaurant called itsara opposite side of the road to sarah janes issan restaurant. At one time there was a disco called virus but for some reason it was not too popular. The only thing HH does not have now is a cinema and a big massage parlor, the one at city beach hotel having been closed a few years back.
What's the sea side place not so far from shit hole city? ban seang I think, that seems to have cleanish sea and a long beach. Spent christmas day there once, not another falang in sight.-peter

nick adams says:

mr peter,

you must not have seen the same bang saen as me. the beach is ok, but the water is dirtier than a nana ladyboy at 3 am. prolly cause of all the boat traffic. also tons of irritating "banana boats" pulled about by psychopaths on jetskis who look like what they'd really like to do is mow down a swimmer or two. true, though, pretty much no farang around, if that's your sort of thing. a rented TGF ought to feel right at home, low-class place as the place is.

Tracey Emmin says:

mmmm.... interesting bit of flame-bait at the end there, nick.

who's a gonna bite?

--

dave - enjoy your sabbatical, just dont lose the spontanity - blogs aren't thesis submissions.

The little people says:

In my opinion the quality of the articles hasn't gone down at all; they are just fine and I think it's great to wake up and log on to read a new one every day. I've been reading this blog since April so maybe they were 10x more brilliant before. But since I've been reading there's been no noticeable drop in quality.

Just my opinion, but I would prefer a new article every day to one article per week. David, you've done a great job with this site -- don't change it!

Combover says:

I agree. They don't all need to be side splitting comedy masterpieces anyway. The observational stuff is good too.

mr peter says:

Nick
I don't know about it being low class, I thought it was thai? Anyway, I did much prefer it to that other low class place. It may well have gone downhill though as it's 10 years nearly since I went, things get concreted over and polluted pretty quick in LOS-peter

Whippet says:

I wouldn't worry too much, David, you've just become a victim of yout own success, that's all. Unfortunately, as with anything that becomes popular, the influx of wankers wanting to be in on the action rises too, and all you can do is ignore this or take steps to prevent it; this does not however mean that thing very thing that made the site popular in the first place should be changed.

Some of us who live in Thailand, whilst we can enjoy the 'highlights' Bangkok has to offer, do tend, after a while at least, to become pretty unimpressed with the antics of many farangs here. Similarly, David, when you produce an article that doesn't explicitly mention a BG in the first paragraph, the article is sadly condemned it seems.

There are people who think that BKK is solely about sex, there are those who come here, treat girls like shit, then wonder why they get ripped off, and there are people who simply don't quite get what this site is all about and make these problems: I try not to spend my time company with members of those firt two groups, and neither should we held to ransom by members of the third. Personally, I don't think registration *would* make this site lose (loose?) it's spontaneity. Just my two cents.

Dicky says:

An post longer than four lines won't be read anyway!

Nomar says:

I wasn't impressed with Rayong the first time I passed through there (on the way to Koh Samet), but I quite enjoyed a subsequent trip. There are some nice, quiet beaches, if that's your thing. Not a whole lot of choices in the way of accommodation though. At least, that's what my friends and I found when driving along the coast for an extended period. We were saved when one friend noticed a new-looking apartment complex next to the beach (probably designed to house folks working at an oil refinery) and figured a deal could be had. They were more than happy to put us up for a couple nights as our group most likely would have represented a quorum of the residents.

As for the frequency of postings, I agree with some of the earlier comments. As long as you're not slave to some sort of self-imposed deadline or to quotas on articles about subject matter X, no worries. It's your blog. Now that you've got a following, some people are going to complain no matter what you post. Might as well post whatever's on your mind and whenever you feel like it.

S- says:

David, no offense really, but spontaneity doesn't last long on Anonymity ...

tonychang says:

just carry on 5 miles down the coast from Hua Hin to Khao Takiab, nice beach, used to go every Sunday, pretty deserted but has a couple of Thai restaraunts and there is a resort hotel on that stretch if you need a decent khazi.Taxi should take you there and back from HH for about 200bt.

hentaigaijin says:

I reckon this website is a breath of fresh air in a vacuous world of political correctness and shite strictures. I applaud the writing and the spirit in which it's written and I would have you know that it has given me the necessary motivation to fuck England off and head east with the sole intention of spunking in a farm girl's eye.

What we do in life echoes in eternity.

KK says:

The only reason I check in on this site are your articles David. The "some" who don't like what you write can piss off!

Gurst says:

If you're driving from BKK to the Southeast, be sure to stop at the Entertainment Plaza in Chonburi. The Op Ohp Nuat is the best in the universe.

Tirak Ja says:

David,

Please don't change anything I love your site! EEEEck don't listen to the little whinners. The writing has me in stiches everday at the office and it makes me look forward to my next sorted Thai affair!

Please please don't change it!!!

TANAI KWAI says:

Hentaigaijin:

Hilarious, you sick fucker.

David,

The quality of the site is due entirely to your fine stories, which are the glue (or goo) that keeps the readership intact. When you do not post, the otherwise mild-mannered regulars give voice to their most primitive, animal urges. The hideous blood-letting that ensues makes "Lord of the Flies" look like brunch at The Oriental.

We wanted to spare you this, but on your last holiday we actually roasted and ate a young fat boy who used to post here under the name "pinkass78." As Dana passed around ragged strips of the lad's tender, greasy flesh we wondered aloud, "I wonder when David's coming back?" Then we slept.

If you want to revamp, or change your writing practices, I hope you do so because it's fun and not because of some jerkoff who writes a line or two then fucks off back to Stickman.

(cheers)

tonychang says:

Tirak ja
Didnt you mean "my next sordid Thai affair"

Mr White

its alright these days, I dont live there anymore!

Tirak Ja says:

Yes you're right I am an idiot, a fool, pardon my stupidity for making a typo on a blog. Duh I am so stupid drool drool.

:-)

Nana Nana Hey says:

David,

Just my opinion, but I thought you had a couple of classics lately. The red squirrel piece and the tuk tuk wheelie both gave me a good laugh.

But it's your blog. Enjoy your time off, I'll look forward to your return.

Pat Paulsen says:

5{-Hin is nice; miles of beaches, without hassle (but there's nice beaches everywhere). Some of beaches are so isolated you might actually fear for your safety. Others so overwhelmingly developed, like Pattaya, you might actually fear for your safety. Islands are the best - they've stopped making them.

One relevant or engaging story day after day, weeks on end; how do you do it? During the holiday new articles appeared every 4th or 5th day. Now that David is back to one per day, and assuming this is unsustainable, why not split the difference: three/four articles a week. Alternate days, or, add a guest writer twice a week.


Pat

Pat Paulsen says:

"Hua-Hin is nice..."

oops!

Pat

Dark says:

I just came back from Hua Hin.

The beaches are nicer than Pattaya, the restaurants are fancier and more up-scale with many Danish/Finn ones.
There is a nice night market.
There are many Finn/Scadinavian expats who live there.
But the mongering scene is terrible, playing with yourself is the better way.

Go there for the golfing, beach sports and snorkeling but forget getting any ladies.

Oh yeah, there are way more ugly, FAT female farangs there, more than Pattaya.

Dark

Bento Box says:

I agree with the general tone of the proceeding comments. David, don't let the Stickman refugees dictate the tone. Send them back to that dark and badly formatted place from which they came.

Gachshund says:

Have some fond memories of Bang Saen - spent three or four days there about 18 years ago with a rented TGF, so naturally I felt very much at home, average sort of place with not a beached whale to be seen. Went to an enjoyable Pumpuang concert, which was probably why the TGF (rented) suggested it as a holiday destination.
Delightful little thing - rang me up in Falangland to ask for my hand in marriage or she was off to Paris with a Frenchman - adieu & bon chance teeruk.
Always nice to know I was first in line over a frog.

Madam Edith says:

David,

Illegitimi Non Carborundum.

Keep going mate and ignore the tossers. If they don't like your contributions let them start their own site and show how clever they really are.

Bibble says:

David,
I'm bored already, at least post a little something, I don't know how long I can put up with all these loonies.

nick adams says:

re: bang saen

i was there not very long ago at all; i could see how it might have been nice a decade or two ago, and it still isn't bad; mostly it's a problem of the water. of course this doesn't stop the thais from hopping right in to dodge the jetskis. although some of the girlies looked nice in their wet t-shirts. for my eastern seaboard money, jomtien beach is the way to go. it's better when the tide is going out; when it's coming, all kinds of shit in the water. but people friendly and obviously a shitload nicer than that craphole pattaya beach. but surely no one but overfed scandinavians and their litttle boys go to pattaya for the beach ...?

Basil Brush says:

I go to Hua Hin four to six times a year.

I am afraid it has been steadily going downhill over the last ten years with the advent of package tourists from Germany and Scandinavia. There are a growing number of (no hanky panky) spas and jewelers. Then there is the ubiquitous Indian tailor shops with attendant touts whose command of English doesn't even run as far as understanding ëfuck off'. Not that many good (or otherwise) restaurants either, probably because all the tourist packages include full board.

However, it beats Pattaya hands down. The smaller hotels are cheap; the bars are friendly (with the occasional attractive girl including one with the biggest pair I have ever got my hands on), there are few katoeys and apart from the tailors the town is hassle free and friendly. Additionally the train journey is always good for a laugh as long as you are not in a rush.

Mike T says:

David,

You have to do something about logons as there are lowlifes who abuse it to create posts which purport to be by others in some weird form of self abuse.

This is a pity but there you go. Either that or name and shame those who steal others identities.

Mike T says:

HH is nice enough. Exactly what the King wants in a seaside resort and what Toxin and his cronies want to make the rest of Thailand resemble.

I was in Kho Chang a few months ago and made the mistake of staying at Toxin's resort (name slips my mind because I felt no need to ever go back to the dump). The concept was clean but sedate with second rate service and farang prices.

Not knocking HH, some of the resorts are fantastic, the Anantara is fab.

However these resorts are about as real as some of the Mango Sauce posters. There is neither the colour and vibrancy of thai life or the tropical delights of an unspoilt paradise.

When was the last time you hiked down to a deserted beach and just whiled away a day lying around, read a book, had a snack and just vegged without being disturbed?

Getting harder in Thailand but the beach south of Hua Hin is like that in places.

eurobserver says:

nice article again david, i am hopefully waiting for part 2 ; Bitches just a taxi-ride from bangkok...

mr peter says:

'When was the last time you hiked down to a deserted beach and just whiled away a day lying around, read a book, had a snack and just vegged without being disturbed'

Fuck that for a game of soldiers, apart from the beach bit, which I cannot understand the attraction of anyway, I do the rest all the time at home. I don't want to go to LOS to get away from it all, I go there to get to it all. The idea of wasting time in LOS laying about is horrible as time spent there is too precious to be frittered away.
If anyone thinks there is no vibrant thai life to be had in HH they should get off the beach. Krua thai cafe is a great sea side place opp sarah janes issan restaurant, stacks of cafe's/karaokes a bit further up the road. For thai life you have to go to thai places-peter

YABS says:

Hua Hin seemed more thai to me than most other resorts but I know what Mike T means there are a
lot of high rises and it detarcts from its appeal.
Koh chang used to be a relaxed chill out place but i've heard its an overdeveloped mess now.
real shame. As soon as these beach areas get developed like that they lose their mystique.
Mr peter not everyone just wants to mong out
but those who do should have a beach option.
If its vibrancy ytou require then thailand could make do with the cities rather than ruininbg their tropical paradise beaches

Mike T says:

Sorry Mr. P but my reference was to life INSIDE the resorts of HH and not what you may discover in the streets of HH itself.

Having said that I have trudged the streets of HH and found nothing special.

frank says:

ko sichang is also very nice.

mr peter says:

Can someone explain the difference between the INSIDE of a resort and the streets of a resort? Don't forget to visit the zoo, not as bad as it sounds, the teak palace and the monkey wat on the hill-peter

Mike T says:

A Resort in Thailand is a bloody big hotel, a swimming pool, a few restaurants, tennis courts etc. normally but not always isolated from the outside world. The Evason would spring to mind as one south of HH which is definitely a Resort.

You may therefore term the Dusit Resort, the Royal Garden Village, now the Anantara, even the Hilton as being names for what is not a hotel where you rest your head (called a hotel) but is a Resort.

If you throw in a couple of mattresses and a girl willing to rub you with cocunut butter you can call it a Spa.

Hence Resort Spa. Sounds good, allows extra money to be charged.

When truding the streets this is done outside the aforementioned Resort Spa or Resort but is within the resort (i.e. the town).

I will endeavour in future to Capitalise to avoid Confusion.

Just to recap, HH is a resort and arguably nothing special, the Anantara is an example of a Resort Spa which is pretty fab.

Dana says:

The nicest things about all resorts and spas that the rich people know about but the rest of us are sort of clueless about is the fact that you are protected either on the grounds or around the pool or on the private beach from pests constantly coming up and trying to sell you some product (ice cream) or service (massage). These pests ruin much of what could be a wonderful Thai vacation experience and put a lie to Land of Smiles. The rich are protected from thieves of our peace and our security and our time. If I ever hit the lottery I intend to spend my time in the most private exclusive hotels of the world. I will deserve it after being pestered to death just because I was poor and defenceless.

Bowser Nopobum says:

You better buy a lottery ticket on your next parole then!

Mike T says:

Those beach vendors are a pain all right.

I do not go to the public beaches in Thailand but stay in the grounds of my 5* Resort at my 5* Swimming Pool sipping 5* Cocktails.

I also have to pay 5* prices so I have to resort (no not a hotel) to only going a few times a year.

HUMAN NATURE

Bow Wow Wow says:

"These pests ruin much of what could be a wonderful Thai vacation experience"... exactly how the rest of us feel every time we see you walk into a Thai bar.

Paul says:

A little off-topic but I wonder whether any kind souls out there could give me some advice.

I'm flying from Singapore to BKK at the end of the year, and am planning a 7 day stop-over in Phuket, where the flight gets routed through.

I need some advice on a good resort to stay at. Ideally I want to avoid the really busy sex tourist destinations like Patong beach but I don't want to be completely without nightlife and some obliging female company.

I also want to learn to snorkel, nothing too elaborate, as it is my first time, just a place where I could easily hire a local boat.

I'm finding it a little hard to research the 'best of both worlds' as the snorkeling and scuba diving guides, typically don't cross-tabulate their accounts of strong currents with the availability of local talent - heh

Any thoughts from the readers here would be appreciated.

My email is nycpcpartsATyahooDOTcom.

Thanks,

Paul.

Combover says:

Karon & Kata are quieter. You could stay there and rent a motorbike to get around. You could still get into Patong for nights out if you are confident in your ability to ride the bike pissed.

The big resorts are up nearer Surin & Bangtao but they are a bit family orientated for my liking.

Or you could stay at a resort in Patong, thereby having the benefit of nice pool and quiet environment within the town. Try the Thara Patong. Good location & nice pool - rates depend on season.

The following is a good site for hotels.

http://www.asiahotels.com

Don't book any diving before you get there. Rates are much lower once you arrive and you can also check out conditions.

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Thai girl