May 6 2004
In step with Thai music

Have you ever wanted to learn more about the soothing melodies that provide the soundtrack to late-night Bangkok taxi rides? Or do you prefer the tracks that periodically inject a bit of life into bored go-go dancers?
Both styles are just part of a rich tradition of Thai music that goes back generations. Mango Sauce reader, Seamus, brings these unique sounds to our farang ears at www.monsoon-country.org and now he explains why.
On a working trip to Thailand in 2000, I picked up a CD of traditional Thai music at a store in MBK. I had heard a street musician playing something that sounded familiar, almost Celtic, and I became interested in learning more about the folk music of this unusual country. However, when I listened to the CD at home, I was more than a little disappointed and I recall thinking that Thailand didn't have much of a musical tradition.
A couple of years later, I was watching a Vietnamese film and, again, heard that familiar sound and decided that I really should find out more about SE Asian music. John Clewley's chapters in the Rough Guide to World Music were a good source of information. John is a columnist at the Bangkok Post, where he writes a bi-weekly piece on world music and is a very knowledgeable chap indeed. But reading about music is like washing your feet with your socks on. I had to hear for myself what he had described so well.
Internet research turned out to be more difficult than I had imagined. Because of the alternate spellings used for Thai words, the search engines aren't always very useful. Of the three types of Thai country music, luk thung was easiest to find and a few aficionados in the West have put up websites. There's also a Bangkok radio station online. Next was mor lam, known in the West perhaps because of the excellent Isan Slete album recorded in London in 1989. But the music that intrigued me the most - and which turned out to be the prize I was looking for - was kantrum (gun-troom). According to Clewley, kantrum is "lower Isan's best kept secret". This must be true since hardly anyone I talked to, Thai or otherwise, had ever heard of it.
Kantrum is to the Khmer-speaking region what mor lam is to the Lao-speaking region of Isan, with the two-string fiddle taking the place of the bamboo khaen. In modern versions of both styles the traditional instruments are often replaced by keyboards, with the addition of drum and bass. Both styles are strongly rhythmic and, while mor lam is somewhat bluesy, kantrum has a distinctively soulful sound.
One year and a trip to SE Asia later I had a small but growing collection of CDs and VCDs. But what was I to do with it? I felt strongly that the music deserved to be heard and, remembering the difficulty I had in finding it, the answer became clear: I needed to create a music site on the worldwide web. And so www.monsoon-country.org was born in March 2004.
The purpose is to showcase the country music of Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. Exactly what defines country music is a matter for the academics. For the rest of us, however, it's probably enough to say we know it when we hear it. For those who enjoy this style of music, the website could be the start of a personal exploration. Perhaps it will open a window of understanding on the wonderful people of SE Asia.
Go and have a listen. There are plenty of other farangs besides Seamus and Mr Peter who have grown to love this style of music.
[Posted to Thai Secrets by David]
*** THE COMMENT FORUM IS NOW CLOSED ***
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