October 27 2003
Street fighting Thai-style

Back in the UK, Saturday-night street brawling is harmless entertainment. Egged on by their screeching girlfriends, excitable larger-lads often enjoy trading punches. If things get too serious, there are always mates around to separate them. It's just like Fight Club, except you can talk about it. Tomorrow they will be buddies again.
Thais take their fights rather more seriously. For them, it's all about winning - not just the taking part. Thai men rarely have spontaneous one-on-one punch-ups. They prefer to return later with a gang of mates when their victim is alone. Not wishing to leave anything to chance, they usually bring weapons too. The results are sometimes fatal.
It doesn't take much to spark a deadly attack. My Thai girlfriend's uncle used to sell music tapes from a street stall. Unfortunately, a local tough-guy started "borrowing" tapes without paying. Eventually the uncle asked him to stop. His response was to come back with a bunch of cronies armed with wooden staves. They beat him until they thought he was dead. Fortunately, he survived but was left disabled. The police didn't want to know because the attacker's family was well connected. Worryingly, this type of incident is not rare.
Thai women are also quite prone to violence but their punch-ups are more western in style. They slug it out one-to-one in the heat of the moment. They don't get much support from their mates because the fierce loyalty that binds Thai men together is absent. The other girls will always stand back and enjoy the fun.
You often see spectacular bitch-fights around the nightlife areas. If a guy goes with a different prostitute, she and his former squeeze become bitter rivals. Thai hookers never seem to understand that their customers have a choice and sometimes there are fireworks.
A few weeks ago, I was enjoying a meal on Sukhumvit Soi 7 when I noticed two tarts arguing nearby. Suddenly their table crashed to the floor and they grappled like wild animals. When it was over, the girl who came off worst was crying to her friends. They were urging her to have another go. Meanwhile, the winner was parading around like a child. Sadly, I had left my camera at home.
Last year I saw another fight on the same soi but this time it was a bar girl beating up a western guy. He was trying to walk away but she was kicking and punching him. When the police arrived, they ignored the girl and arrested him. Unfortunately, that's how it is here. He should have run faster.
More recently, I was chatting to a Thai woman over a game of pool. She told me the story of her most successful fight. During the scuffle, she was given a knife by one of her friends. She proudly described how she stabbed the other girl and 8 of her jeering mates in a huge bloodbath. When she asked me if I wanted a date, I naturally declined - very politely.
Female violence isn't confined to rough bar girls. On my last visit to the Suan Lum Night Bazaar I was treated to the spectacle of two schoolgirls beating seven shades of shit out of each other. It was quality entertainment and an appreciative crowd soon gathered.
Many visitors are struck by the charm and politeness of the Thai people. It is hard to believe that a ticking time-bomb lurks just below the surface. Normally, this aggression only reveals itself behind the wheel of a car but the possibility of it erupting into everyday life is always there. Not wishing to let the genie out of the bottle, Thais go to extraordinary lengths to avoid conflict with each other. The sensible western visitor should do the same.
[Posted to Thai Secrets by David]
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