November 3 2003
The risks of complaining in Thailand

Recently, a friend of mine was enjoying a drink in a well-known Patpong go-go bar. Without thinking, he paid with a 1,000 baht note. Inevitably, he only got the change for 500. When he complained to the mamasan, she became hostile. After a short argument, she called the bouncers over to throw him out. One of them punched him hard in the face.
When westerners receive poor service or get ripped-off they naturally complain. However, in Thailand, they are often shocked at how badly their complaints are dealt with.
In a similar situation, a Thai would normally remain silent. They know that even the mildest criticism is deeply offensive to a fellow Thai. Once a conflict has started, it can quickly escalate. Fear of losing face (the ultimate humiliation in Thai culture) means that neither side can back down. Faced with either losing face or spilling blood, most Thais opt to say nothing.
This huge cultural difference makes voicing complaints very tricky indeed. Even helpful criticism is unwelcome. If you get bad service it's best just to ignore it and take your business elsewhere.
My friend in the go-go bar was a big favourite of the girls. He used to visit every week, spending thousands of baht. Many of the dancers rushed outside to see if he was ok. He told them that he would never set foot in the place again - and he hasn't. The owner probably doesn't realise that high-rolling customers are being beaten-up to conceal petty thefts. A few incidents like this each week could ultimately cost him millions.
It's not that Thais don't understand customer service - they do. Often, it is excellent. Problems only arise when mistakes need to be rectified. Given that Thais take criticism so personally, extreme tact is required. My friend in the go-go bar was right to point out the problem with his change - so long as he treated it as a minor oversight. It may or may not have worked but escalating the matter to an accusation of theft made violence almost inevitable.
I had my own moment of conflict last year when I took my girlfriend to Pattaya. Stupidly, we boarded one of the private buses that tout for business outside Ekkamai Station. Three hours later we had barely moved 2 miles. The driver was picking up passengers on every street corner and conditions were getting crowded. Next we were ordered to disembark and get onto another bus - which was already full.
At this point my patience snapped. As 100 or so sheep-like Thai passengers looked on, I asked the driver for a refund. Even though I was careful not to raise my voice, he immediately became angry and abusive. Not wishing to come to blows over 80 baht; I hailed a taxi and gave the guy the finger as we sped away. From a Thai point of view, I handled the situation badly and lost face. On this occasion, however, I couldn't give a toss. Sod the lot of them.
The need to avoid personal criticism applies equally to intimate relationships. It is perfectly reasonable for a guy to tell his girlfriend to behave herself - for example in spending habits and social conduct. However, if she screws up, blaming her gets you nowhere. The notion of saying sorry is almost unknown in Thai culture.
Expecting former bar girls to reform is pointless. I know of one guy who spent months compiling a dossier against his live-in girlfriend. By breaking into her email account, installing a web cam and reading her text messages he proved that she was shagging other guys and stealing from his wallet. When confronted with the evidence she went crazy, trashed his place and left him. He was expecting an apology.
If you get bad service in Thailand, taking your business elsewhere is the only solution. This is equally true of relationships with Thai women. If she is full of shit, don't waste your breath complaining. Just dump her and find a more suitable girl.
The Thai inability to deal with complaints can sometimes be a nuisance but the upside is that no Thai will ever criticise you - even if you behave like a twat. Try to remember that this is why Thailand is such a fun place to be.
[Posted to Farang Life by David]
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