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Recently, hundreds of western tourists with incorrect visas were arrested and jailed in appalling conditions. Some had their heads forcibly shaved. These days, long-stay foreigners can suffer serious consequences if they lose at the visa game. Thai hospitality isn't what it used to be.

Being turned away at the border is everyone's worst nightmare. In theory, you could lose your home, girlfriend and possessions at a stroke but, in practice, this seems rare - only naughty boys end up on the immigration blacklist. If you avoid visa violations, law breaking and political activities there should be no problem.

Many foreigners living permanently in Thailand hold only a tourist visa. The promise of a 60 day stay is the only security they have. A 30 day extension is normally granted but, after that, they must leave the country to get a new one. Quarterly visa runs are an irritating fact of life.

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Those who work legally have no choice but to endure the excesses of Thai bureaucracy. Non-workers could apply a non-immigrant visa but few bother because the hassle is just as great and they would still have to do visa runs. The humble tourist visa is the only alternative.

In the past, some avoided the hassle by going to visa agents. In collusion with corrupt immigration officials, these agents arranged for passports to be stamped without fuss. An unexpected crackdown a few weeks ago netted hundreds of foreign offenders as they passed through passport control. As news of the arrests spread, many others chose to "lose" their passports. The demand for replacements is so great that foreign embassies here are reported to have run out.

The pressure on long-term visitors is increasing. Two months ago, visa charges were almost quadrupled. The income required to live here on a more formal basis was also raised. Only "quality" foreigners are welcome. With the tourist industry already in deep trouble, there could hardly be a worse time for the authorities to get tough.

Doom-mongers would have us believe that they plan to limit the number of times you can renew a tourist visa but to me this sounds unlikely. The resulting exodus of foreigners would clear out half the country's up-market apartment buildings. Given that these are owned by the ruling classes (the Prime Minister's wife for example) I can't see them lobbying to empty their own pockets. Of course, you can't take anything for granted in Thailand.

Tolerance of foreigners does seem to be wearing thin. Last week, 546 were arrested in 3 day police crackdown. Charges included causing annoyance to tourists, working without permits, illegal entry, prostitution and drug dealing. Most were from Africa, South Asia and the Middle East but some were westerners.

Many here are worried about the changing political climate. Hardly a day goes by without the Bangkok Post printing a letter from some farang about the economic benefits of allowing us to stay. The benefits are real but the truth is that many Thai voters don't care. They would rather we buggered off home. Thailand is not a multicultural society.

We are only allowed to stay because the ruling classes need our money. Seen from this perspective, the immigration rules make perfect sense. They are an expensive hassle designed to weed out the less well-off and make our stay feel temporary.

I suspect that foreigners - particularly westerners - will continue to be allowed to live in Thailand but under progressively tighter controls. It makes sense to choose a fall-back country in case the hassle becomes too great. I like this part of the world but would have difficulty adapting to life in struggling nations like Cambodia, Laos or Burma. Malaysia would be my choice. There, a 3 month social/business pass is issued on arrival - free of charge.

[Posted to Farang Life by David]

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